Experiencing no hot water from your RV electric water heater is one of the most common rv water heater problems. When your heater provides no hot water on electric power, a faulty Heating Element is the likely culprit. This guide helps you troubleshoot the heater and replace the electric water heater element yourself. This simple repair gets your hot water running again. You will also see significant savings when you repair rv water heater issues yourself.
| Service Type | Total Typical Repair Cost |
|---|---|
| DIY | Under $20 (simple fixes) |
| Professional | $200 to $300 |
Note: Many Heating element manufacturers, like Jinzhong Electric Heating, produce quality household appliance heating elements. Our troubleshooting guide helps you find the right water heater element for your specific rv water heater. Following these steps for your electric water heater will restore your hot water and confidence in your heater.
Safety First: Preparing Your RV for Service
Before you touch a single tool, you must prioritize safety. Working on an RV electric water heater involves both 120V electricity and hot water, a combination that demands your full attention. Following these preparation steps is not optional; it is essential for a safe and successful repair.
Critical Safety Warnings
Understanding Electric Shock and Burn Risks
You are working with a 120V AC appliance. This voltage presents a serious risk of electric shock if you do not completely disconnect the power. The water inside the heater can also be scalding hot, creating a significant burn hazard. Always assume the heater is energized and the water is hot until you have personally verified otherwise. Your safety depends on treating the system with respect.
The Danger of “Dry Firing” a New Element
CRITICAL WARNING: Never apply power to an electric water heater unless the tank is completely full of water. Powering on a new water heater element without it being submerged will cause it to burn out in seconds. This mistake, known as “dry firing,” will instantly destroy your new element and require you to start the replacement process all over again.
Powering Down the RV Water Heater
Disconnect All 120V AC Power
Your first action is to remove all sources of 120V AC power from your RV. Unplug the main shore power cord from the pedestal. If your RV has a generator, ensure it is turned off. Do not rely on just a single switch. To be certain the heater is de-energized, you should verify with a multimeter.
- Turn off the dedicated power switches for the rv water heater. Ensure both the gas and electric switches are in the OFF position.
- Set your multimeter to the AC voltage setting (V~).
- Carefully test for voltage on both sides of the 120V AC thermostat inside the access panel.
- Confirm there is no voltage at the water heater element by touching one multimeter probe to each screw terminal and the other probe to a common ground. A reading of 0 volts confirms the power is off.
Turn Off the 12V DC System
The control circuits for your heater often use 12V DC power. Turn off your RV’s 12V DC system using the battery disconnect switch, often called the “salesman switch.” This prevents any part of the system from trying to activate while you work.
Switch Off the Water Heater at the Panel
As a final precaution, locate the interior control panel for your RV. Find the switch labeled for the electric heater and confirm it is in the OFF position. This adds another layer of safety to your process.
Shutting Off and Draining the Water System
Turn Off the Water Pump or City Connection
You must stop water from entering the heater tank. If you are connected to a city water supply, turn off the spigot. If you are using your fresh water tank, turn off the RV water pump at your control panel.
Open a Hot Water Faucet to Relieve Pressure
Go inside your RV and open the hot water side of a faucet, preferably the one farthest from the heater. You will hear air hiss as pressure is released from the system. Leave this faucet open during the draining process to allow air to enter the tank, which helps the water drain completely.
Drain the Water Heater Tank Completely
Outside your RV, locate and remove the drain plug or anode rod from the bottom of the heater tank. Water will begin to flow out. Allow the tank to drain completely before attempting to remove the old element.
Tools and Parts: What You’ll Need for the Job
Gathering the right tools and parts before you begin makes the repair process smooth and efficient. You can find most of these items at a hardware or RV supply store. Having everything on hand prevents unnecessary trips and delays in getting your hot water running again.
Essential Tools for Replacement
A successful replacement requires a few specific tools. Most are common, but one is specialized for this job.
Multimeter
A multimeter is non-negotiable for this task. You will use it to test the old water heater element for continuity and to confirm that the 120V power to the heater is completely off before you begin work.
Water Heater Element Wrench or 1-1/2″ Socket
You need a special tool to remove and install the element.
- A water heater element wrench is the best choice. This tool is a large socket, often with a T-handle rod, designed specifically for this purpose.
- A 1-1/2″ socket with a long-handled ratchet will also work for most screw-in elements.
Adjustable Wrench and Pliers
An adjustable wrench helps you remove the drain plug or anode rod. A set of pliers is useful for gripping and disconnecting the electrical wires from the element terminals.
Screwdrivers and Wire Strippers
You will need a screwdriver to remove the element’s protective cover. If the wire ends are corroded, you may need wire strippers to expose fresh wire for a clean, secure connection to the new element.
How to Choose the Correct Replacement Element
Selecting the correct part is critical for a successful repair. Your RV water heater requires a specific type of element to function correctly and safely.
Find Your Water Heater’s Model Number
Locate the data plate on your RV water heater. This sticker or plate is usually visible after you open the exterior access door. It contains the manufacturer and model number you need to find the correct part.
Match the Wattage and Voltage (120V)
RV electric water heater elements operate on 120V AC power. The wattage is also important. Most Atwood or Suburban RV water heater models use an element rated between 1400 and 1500 watts. Matching the original wattage ensures your heater performs as designed and does not overload the RV’s electric circuit.
Identify Your Type: Screw-In vs. Flange-Style
Most RVs use a screw-in style element. However, you should confirm which type your heater uses.
Screw-In: This is the most common type. It has threads and screws directly into the water tank. Flange-Style: This type has a metal plate with bolt holes that secures it to the heater tank. It is less common in modern RVs.
Get the Right Gasket and Pipe Thread Sealant
Your new water heater element should come with a new gasket or O-ring. Always use the new one to ensure a perfect seal. You will also need pipe thread sealant or Teflon tape. Applying this to the threads of the new element prevents water leaks around the connection.
How to Troubleshoot the RV Electric Water Heater Element
With the safety preparations complete, you can now begin the troubleshooting process. This part of our water heater troubleshooting guide will help you pinpoint whether the heating element is the source of your problem. You will need your multimeter for this critical step.
Gaining Access to the Heating Element
The water heater element is located inside the tank, but its electrical connections are accessible from the outside of your RV.
Locate and Open the Exterior Access Door
Find the exterior access panel for your rv water heater. It is a square or rectangular metal door on the side of your RV. Unlatch or unscrew it to swing it open. This reveals the main components of the heater, including the gas burner tube, thermostats, and the electric heating element.
Remove the Element’s Protective Cover
The water heater element itself will have a black plastic or metal cover over its electrical terminals. This cover is often held in place by a single screw or a clip. Remove the screw and carefully pull the cover off to expose the two screw terminals and the wires connected to them.
Testing the Element with a Multimeter
This is the definitive test to determine the health of your element. Proper troubleshooting here will confirm if a replacement is necessary.
Take a Photo of the Wire Connections
Before you disconnect anything, take a clear photo of the wires connected to the element terminals with your smartphone. This simple step provides an invaluable reference, ensuring you reconnect the wires correctly later. You can also label the wires for easy reconnection.
Safely Disconnect the Wires from the Element
Safety Check: Before touching the wires, use your multimeter (set to AC Volts) to double-check that no power is present at the terminals. Confirm a reading of 0 volts.
Once you verify the power is off, you can safely disconnect the wires. Use pliers or a nut driver to loosen the nuts on the screw terminals. Slide the wire connectors off the terminals and move them aside. Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses for an added layer of protection.
Set Your Multimeter to Test for Continuity (Ohms)
Turn the dial on your multimeter to the lowest setting for Ohms (Ω), which measures resistance. This mode is often indicated by a symbol that looks like a horseshoe or a soundwave icon. When you touch the two multimeter probes together, the reading should drop to zero (or very close to it), confirming the meter is working correctly.
Perform the Continuity Test on the Terminals
Now you are ready to troubleshoot the component. Follow these steps to test the heater element:
- Ensure the wires are fully disconnected from the element.
- Place one multimeter probe firmly on one of the screw terminals.
- Place the other probe on the second screw terminal.
- Hold the probes steady and observe the reading on the multimeter’s display. The polarity of the probes does not matter for this test.
Interpreting the Test Results
The reading on your multimeter will tell you everything you need to know about the condition of your rv electric water heater element. This troubleshooting step is key to diagnosing your heater.
What a Good Reading Looks Like (Continuity)
A functional water heater element will show a specific amount of resistance. For most RV models, a good reading will fall somewhere between 10 and 30 ohms. If your multimeter displays a number in this range, the element has continuity. This means the internal coil is intact and capable of heating water. The problem likely lies elsewhere in the electric system, such as the thermostat or switch.
Identifying a Bad Element (No Continuity)
A failed element will show no continuity. Your multimeter will display one of two readings:
- “OL” (Over Limit)
- “I” (Infinity)
- The same reading as when the probes are not touching anything.
Any of these readings indicate infinite resistance. This means the internal filament of the element has broken. No electric current can pass through it, so it cannot produce heat. If you get this reading, the element is bad and you must replace it.
How to Check for a Ground Fault
A ground fault is another type of failure where the element shorts out to the tank. This can trip your RV’s circuit breaker. You must test for this fault to complete your diagnosis.
- Keep your multimeter on the Ohms (Ω) setting.
- Place one probe on one of the element’s screw terminals.
- Touch the other probe to the metal flange of the element itself or the metal tank of the heater.
- A good element will show “OL” or infinite resistance. This means no electricity is leaking to ground.
- If the multimeter beeps or shows a resistance reading (any number other than “OL”), the element has a ground fault. It is bad and must be replaced, even if it passed the initial continuity test. Repeat this test for the other terminal to be certain.
Step-by-Step: How to Replace Electric Water Heater Element
You have confirmed the old element is faulty. Now you can proceed with the physical replacement. This part of the guide details the hands-on steps to swap the old component for the new one. With the heater tank fully drained, you are ready to begin this straightforward repair.
Removing the Old, Faulty Element
Removing the old part correctly sets the stage for a successful installation. Work carefully to avoid damaging the water heater tank threads.
Use the Element Wrench to Loosen the Old Element
Position your water heater element wrench or 1-1/2″ socket over the old element. Ensure it has a firm grip. Apply steady, counter-clockwise pressure to break the seal. The element may be tight due to age and corrosion, so you might need to use some force. Brace yourself and the heater to prevent slipping. A small amount of residual water may spill out as you loosen it.
Unscrew and Remove It from the Tank
Once you break the element free, you can typically unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Carefully pull the old water heater element straight out of the tank. You will likely see significant scale buildup, corrosion, or a visible break in the coil. This visual evidence confirms your diagnosis.
Clean the Threads on the Water Tank
A clean threaded surface is essential for a leak-proof seal. The threads inside the heater tank bung can accumulate rust, scale, and old sealant. You must clean this area thoroughly before installing the new part.
Pro Tip: A clean mating surface prevents future leaks. Take your time on this step for the best results.
You can use several methods to clean the threads effectively:
- Brass or Steel Brush: Use a fitting brush (like one for copper pipes) or a brass toothbrush. Gently work the brush inside the threads to scrub away loose debris. Adding a little white vinegar can help dissolve mineral deposits.
- Pipe Nipple: Carefully work a 3/4″ pipe nipple in and out of the threads to dislodge stubborn grime.
- Canvas Needle: For bits of old Teflon tape, you can use a bent, heavy-duty needle to gently scrape the material out of the thread grooves.
Preparing and Installing the New Element
With the old part removed and the tank threads clean, you are ready to install the new replacement. Proper preparation here ensures your electric water heater will be free of leaks.
Apply Thread Sealant to the New Element’s Threads
Take your new water heater element. Apply a thin, even layer of pipe thread sealant or wrap Teflon tape around the male threads. If using tape, wrap it clockwise 3-4 times. This ensures the tape tightens as you screw the element in. Do not get any sealant on the gasket or the end of the element.
Position the New Gasket Correctly
Your new element should include a new rubber gasket or O-ring. Always use the new one. Discard the old, compressed gasket. Slide the new gasket over the threads and ensure it sits flat and flush against the element’s flange. This gasket creates the primary water seal.
Screw the New Element in by Hand
Carefully align the new element with the threaded opening on your rv heater. Gently turn it clockwise by hand. It should thread in smoothly for several turns. Starting it by hand is a critical step to prevent cross-threading, which can permanently damage the water tank of the heater.
Tighten It Snugly with the Wrench
Once the element is hand-tight, use your element wrench or socket to finish the job. You must tighten it enough to compress the gasket and create a seal, but not so much that you damage the threads or the gasket. Over-tightening is a common mistake that causes leaks.
For the most accurate installation, use a torque wrench. If you do not have one, a good rule of thumb is to tighten it an additional quarter-turn after it becomes snug. This task is the final step to replace electric water heater element in your rv.
| Element Size | Recommended Final Torque |
|---|---|
| 1-1/2 inch | 35-40 lb-ft |
| 1-1/4 inch | 25-30 lb-ft |
| Screw-in | 15 lb-ft |
Proper torque ensures a durable, leak-free seal for your rv electric system and protects your investment in the new part and the heater itself.
Reconnecting and Finalizing the Installation
With the new water heater element securely in place, you are on the home stretch. The final steps involve carefully reconnecting the electrical system and closing everything up. Proper attention to detail here ensures your heater operates safely and reliably for many trips to come. This phase transitions your repair from mechanical work back to electrical assembly.
Reconnecting the Electrical Wires
You must restore the electrical connections to the new element with precision. This step powers your new component, allowing it to heat the water in your rv.
Use Your Photo to Reattach Wires Correctly
Refer to the photograph you took before disconnecting the old element. This visual guide is your most reliable tool for ensuring the wires return to their correct terminals.
- Carefully slide each wire connector back onto its corresponding screw terminal on the new element.
- The polarity of these two wires typically does not matter, but following your photo guarantees you are restoring the original factory configuration.
- Double-check your work against the photo before proceeding.
Ensure Connections are Tight and Secure
A loose connection can create electrical arcing, which generates intense heat and poses a serious fire hazard. You must ensure each connection is solid.
- Thread the nuts back onto the screw terminals.
- Use your nut driver or pliers to tighten them firmly.
- Give each wire a gentle tug to confirm it is snug and does not pull off the terminal. A secure connection is vital for the safe operation of your electric heater.
Reinstalling Covers and Panels
The final assembly step involves replacing the protective covers. These components are not cosmetic; they are essential safety features for your rv and its water system.
Put the Element’s Protective Cover Back On
You must reinstall the protective cover over the element’s terminals. This plastic or metal plate is a critical safety device. Its purpose is to safeguard you and others from accidental contact with the live electrical connections, thereby preventing a dangerous shock. Reinstalling this cover is crucial for maintaining a protective barrier. Secure it with its original screw or clip.
Safety Reminder: Never operate the water heater without this cover in place. It is your primary defense against electrocution when the heater is powered.
Close and Secure the Main Access Door
Your work on the heater itself is now complete. Swing the exterior access door for the water heater shut. Latch it or fasten its screws securely. Closing the door protects the burner tube, thermostats, and your new element from road debris, insects, and weather. This simple action keeps your entire water heater system clean and protected, ensuring your rv is ready for the next adventure.
The Final Check: Refilling and Testing Your Work
You have successfully installed the new water heater element. This final phase is the most important. You must follow these steps in the correct order to prevent damage and confirm your repair was a success. Rushing this part can instantly ruin your new element.
CRITICAL STEP: Refilling the Tank Before Powering On
You must fill the tank with water before you restore any power. Applying electricity to an unsubmerged element will destroy it in seconds. This is known as “dry firing.”
The Science of Dry Firing A dry-fired element cannot transfer its heat to water. It rapidly overheats, reaching over 1,000°F in moments. This intense heat will:
- Instantly burn out the new element.
- Warp or crack the metal of the heater tank.
- Damage the tank’s insulation.
A dry-fired water heater element cannot be repaired and will require another replacement. Always fill the tank first.
Reinstall the Anode Rod or Drain Plug
Before adding water, you must close the tank. Find the anode rod or plastic drain plug you removed earlier. Screw it back into the drain opening and tighten it snugly with your wrench to create a good seal.
Turn the Water Supply Back On
Now you can reintroduce water to your rv. Reconnect your city water hose to the spigot or turn on your RV’s 12V water pump at the control panel. Water will begin flowing into the empty rv water heater tank.
Open a Hot Water Faucet to Bleed All Air
Go inside your rv and fully open the hot water side of a faucet. The kitchen or bathroom sink works well. The heater fills from the bottom with cold water. This process naturally pushes the air in the tank out through the open faucet. You will hear sputtering and hissing as air escapes the line.
Wait Until Water Flows Steadily
Let the water run until all the air is purged from the system. You will know the tank is full when the faucet stops sputtering and a solid, steady stream of cold water flows out.
- Ensure the 120-volt electric power to the rv water heater is still OFF.
- Turn on the water supply (pump or city connection).
- Open a hot water faucet inside the rv.
- Wait until the water stream is steady and free of air.
- Close the faucet once all air is purged.
Restoring Power and Testing the New Element
With the tank full of water, you can now safely test your new element.
Restore 120V AC and 12V DC Power to the RV
Plug your RV’s shore power cord back into the pedestal. Then, turn your 12V DC battery disconnect switch back to the ON position. Your rv electric water heater now has the power it needs to operate.
Turn on the Electric Water Heater Switch
Locate the interior switch for your electric water heater. Flip it to the ON position. The heater will now begin drawing power to warm the water in the tank.
Check for Any Water Leaks Around the New Element
Return outside to the heater access panel. Carefully inspect the new element for any signs of dripping water. Use a flashlight to get a clear view around the flange. Even a small leak can cause corrosion and problems later. If you see a leak, turn off the power and water, drain the tank, and tighten the element slightly more.
Wait 20-30 Minutes and Check for Hot Water
The final moment of truth has arrived. Allow the heater about 20 to 30 minutes to do its job. After waiting, go inside and turn on a hot water faucet. You should be rewarded with hot water, confirming a successful repair.
You successfully followed these steps to troubleshoot and repair your rv water heater. This common water heater repair is an empowering skill for any rv owner. You can now confidently repair rv water heater problems yourself. This troubleshooting knowledge makes you a more capable rv owner.
The Golden Rule of this Repair: Always fill the heater tank with water before applying power. This single action protects your new element and ensures your heater provides hot water.
Your rv heater is now ready, providing the hot water you need for your rv adventures.
FAQ
What is an anode rod and do I need one?
An anode rod is a sacrificial rod that protects your steel water tank from corrosion. You should replace it when it is mostly consumed.
Note: If your RV has an aluminum tank, like most Atwood models, you do not need an anode rod.
Why does my hot water smell like rotten eggs?
This smell is typically caused by harmless bacteria in the water. You can fix this by flushing the tank with a water and vinegar solution. This is a simple maintenance task, not a complex repair.
How long should it take for my water to get hot?
A new element usually heats a standard 6-gallon tank in about 30-45 minutes. For faster heating, you can often run both the gas and electric systems simultaneously.
Can I use both the gas and electric systems at once?
Yes. Most modern RVs allow this. This feature provides a much faster water recovery rate, which is useful when multiple people need to shower.
My new element still doesn’t work. What’s next?
If the new element fails, your next troubleshooting step is to test the thermostat and the power switch. These components can also fail and prevent the element from receiving power. This is a more advanced repair.
Is it safe to leave my water heater on all the time?
Yes, it is generally safe. The thermostat will cycle the heater on and off to maintain the water temperature. However, turning it off when not needed saves energy.
