
You select the correct elemento calefactor for your rv water heater by matching three critical specifications. You must align the voltage (120V AC), wattage (commonly 1440W), and mounting type (screw-in or flange). Fabricantes de elementos calefactores, like Calefacción eléctrica Jinzhong, produce a vast array of elementos calefactores de electrodomésticos, making this verification step crucial.
Consejo profesional: Always confirm these three details. Check your owner’s manual or the stamp on the old element before you purchase a replacement. This simple check guarantees compatibility.
Identifying Your RV Water Heater and Element
Before you can purchase a replacement, you must correctly identify your RV water heater and its specific components. This process is straightforward once you know where to look.
Common RV Water Heater Brands
Suburban vs. Dometic/Atwood Designs
The RV water heater market is dominated by two primary manufacturers: Suburban and Dometic (which acquired Atwood). You can often distinguish them by a key feature. Suburban models use a steel, porcelain-lined tank that requires a sacrificial anode rod to prevent corrosion. Dometic/Atwood models typically feature an aluminum tank and do not use an anode rod. This distinction is important for both element replacement and general maintenance. Many modern units function as a dual-fuel gas water heater, using propane when you are off-grid and electricity when you are connected to shore power.
How to Find Your Model Number
You will find the model and serial number for your RV water heater on a sticker or data plate. This is usually located inside the exterior access panel, affixed to the side of the unit. Knowing your model number is essential for confirming parts compatibility. While Suburban and Dometic are the most common, other brands exist in the RV and water heating space.
- Suburban Manufacturing Company
- Dometic Group AB
- Truma Gerätetechnik GmbH & Co. KG
- Girard Systems
- Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.
- Rinnai Corporation
Locating the Electric Heating Element
Finding the Exterior Access Panel
Your journey to the heating element begins on the outside of your RV. Look for a louvered metal or plastic panel. This is the main access door for your RV water heater. It is typically secured with a twisting latch or a few screws.
Removing the Protective Cover
Once you open the exterior panel, you will see the tank and its various connections. The electric heating element is usually situated in the lower portion of the unit. It will have a black or gray plastic cover over its electrical terminals. You must carefully remove this protective cover, which may be held by a pin or a small nut, to access the element and its wiring.
Reading Your Current Element’s Specifications
Finding Voltage and Wattage Stamps
Safety Standard: The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) requires that replacement heating elements be clearly marked with their voltage and wattage ratings. This ensures you can easily find the correct specifications for a safe installation.
You will find these specifications stamped directly onto the hexagonal base of the element itself. Look for markings like 120V
y 1440W
. These numbers are non-negotiable for selecting a compatible part.
Using the Owner’s Manual for Specs
If mineral buildup or corrosion makes the stamp on your old element unreadable, your next best resource is the owner’s manual for your propane water heater. The manual contains a parts list or a specifications chart. This chart will detail the correct voltage and wattage for your specific model.
Determining the Mounting Type
After confirming voltage and wattage, you must identify the element’s mounting type. This detail dictates how the element physically attaches to your rv water heater tank. Manufacturers use two primary designs: screw-in and flange. A visual inspection is the most reliable way to determine which type your unit requires. You cannot interchange these two styles, so correct identification is essential for a successful replacement.
Screw-In (Threaded) Elements
You can identify a screw-in element by the large threads located on its hexagonal base. This type functions like a large bolt. You install it by threading it directly into a matching female port on the water heater tank.
- Commonality: Screw-in elements are the most prevalent design in the industry. You will find them in nearly all Suburban models and many Dometic/Atwood units.
- Installation: You use an element wrench to tighten or loosen it. A proper seal is critical to prevent leaks. You achieve this seal by applying Teflon tape or pipe sealant to the threads before installation.
- Standard Size: The vast majority of screw-in elements for a North American rv water heater use a standard
1-inch National Pipe Thread (NPT)
.
Consejo profesional: When you remove an old screw-in element, inspect the tank’s threads for damage or corrosion. You should clean them carefully with a wire brush before installing the new part to ensure a watertight seal.
Flange (Bolt-On) Elements
A flange-style element looks distinctly different from its threaded counterpart. It features a flat plate, or flange, with several bolt holes around its perimeter. This entire assembly bolts onto the exterior of the tank, compressing a gasket to create a seal.
You will find this design most often on older Dometic/Atwood models. While less common today, many RVs still use this reliable system. The replacement process involves unbolting the old assembly, cleaning the tank’s mounting surface, positioning a new gasket, and then bolting the new element securely in place. The specific number of bolts (often four) is a key identifier for this type of rv water heater element.
Here is a simple comparison to help you distinguish the two types:
Característica | Screw-In (Threaded) Element | Flange (Bolt-On) Element |
---|---|---|
Appearance | Hexagonal base with large threads | Flat plate with multiple bolt holes |
Installation | Screws directly into the tank | Bolts onto the tank surface |
Sealing Method | Teflon tape or pipe sealant on threads | A separate gasket between flange and tank |
Common Brands | Suburban, many Dometic/Atwood | Older Dometic/Atwood models |
Associated Unit | Most modern rv water heater units | Specific models of an rv water heater |
How to Select the Correct Replacement Heating Element
You have identified your water heater and located the old element. Now you must choose the correct replacement. This selection process hinges on three non-negotiable factors: voltage, wattage, and material. Getting any of these wrong can lead to poor performance, damage to your RV’s electrical system, or complete failure.
Matching Voltage: The 120V AC Standard
Voltage is the electrical “pressure” that powers the element. Matching this specification is a matter of safety and functionality.
Why 120V is the North American Norm
The electrical systems in North American RVs, homes, and campgrounds are standardized to 120-volt alternating current (AC). Your rv water heater is designed to operate on this specific voltage when connected to shore power or a generator. Consequently, nearly every replacement element you find for this market will be rated for 120V AC.
Dangers of Using Incorrect Voltage
You must never install an element with a voltage rating other than 120V AC. Using the wrong voltage is extremely dangerous and can cause severe problems.
⚠️ Electrical Hazard Warning: A damaged or incorrect heating element can create a “hot-skin” condition. This occurs when a leak allows electrical current to energize the RV’s metal chassis and skin. This can create a shock hazard of up to 120 volts, posing a serious risk of injury.
Installing an element with a different voltage can also cause immediate equipment failure. For instance, a user who installed an element designed for a 20-amp circuit instead of the required 15-amp one found their water heater no longer worked on electricity. The incorrect part likely blew a protective fuse, disabling the system even after the correct part was installed.
Matching Wattage for Optimal Performance
Wattage measures the element’s power consumption and heat output. You must match this rating to your water heater’s design specifications for safe and efficient operation.
1440W vs. 1500W: What’s the Difference?
You will most commonly see elements rated for 1440W or 1500W. The difference is minimal. A 1440W element is designed to draw 12 amps (1440W ÷ 120V), while a 1500W element draws 12.5 amps (1500W ÷ 120V). Both are designed for a standard 15-amp circuit. You can generally use them interchangeably, but you should always prioritize the manufacturer’s recommendation.
- Verify the required wattage using your service or owner’s manual before installing a new heating element.
- This ensures your selection is compatible with your RV’s wiring and circuit breaker.
Why You Must Not Exceed Recommended Wattage
Installing a heating element with a higher wattage than your system is designed for can overload the circuit. Think of your RV’s electrical system as a network of pipes. Pushing too much power (wattage) through them can cause significant damage.
A standard RV outlet circuit is rated for 15 amps, which can handle a maximum of 1800 watts (120V x 15 amps). A 1500W element already brings the circuit close to its limit. Running another appliance on the same circuit can easily cause an overload. This can lead to several issues:
- Disyuntores disparados o fusibles quemados
- Overheated wiring inside your walls
- Damage to the outlet or other electrical components
- Potential for an electrical fire
Fuses and breakers are safety devices, but they may not react quickly enough to prevent overheating if the circuit is consistently overloaded. This is why you must stick to the wattage specified for your unit, whether it’s a standard water heater or a dual-fuel gas water heater.
Choosing the Right Element Material
The material of an element’s sheath affects its lifespan, performance, and resistance to mineral buildup, especially in hard water areas.
Standard vs. Premium Elements
Elements are typically made from copper, stainless steel, or an alloy called Incoloy. Copper is a standard, cost-effective option, but premium alloys offer superior durability.
Material | Vida útil | Resistencia a la corrosión | Durabilidad |
---|---|---|---|
Copper | Short | Moderate; susceptible to corrosion. | Moderate; can pit over time. |
Incoloy | Long | Excellent, especially at high temperatures. | High; withstands corrosive chemicals. |
Acero inoxidable | Más extenso | Very Good; performs well in hard water. | High; resists oxidation. |
High Watt Density (HWD) Elements Explained
Watt density refers to how concentrated the heat is on the element’s surface. This impacts both heating speed and longevity. A High Watt Density (HWD) element heats water faster, similar to the on-demand performance of a tankless water heater, but this comes at a cost. The higher surface temperature accelerates mineral (scale) buildup, which can lead to premature failure. A Low Watt Density (LWD) element is often a better choice for a standard water heater, especially in hard water areas.
Característica | High Watt Density (HWD) | Low Watt Density (LWD) |
---|---|---|
Heating Speed | Faster | Slower |
Longevidad | Shorter, especially in hard water | Longer, resists scale buildup |
Best For | Soft water areas; speed is a priority | Hard water areas; longevity is a priority |
Mantenimiento | Requires more frequent descaling | Requires less frequent descaling |
Best Materials for Hard Water Areas
If you frequently travel in areas with hard water, selecting the right element material is crucial for preventing rapid failure from scale buildup.
- Incoloy: Many RV owners choose ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) elements made from Incoloy. This alloy offers excellent resistance to both corrosion and high temperatures.
- Titanium: If your budget allows, titanium is a top-tier choice. It is exceptionally resistant to scale and corrosion. Because it contains no iron, it cannot rust.
- Ceramic: Ceramic heating elements are another excellent option for hard water. They are sturdy, efficient, and naturally resistant to the corrosive effects of mineral-rich water.
Choosing one of these premium materials can save you the time and expense of frequent replacements.
Where to Purchase Your Replacement
You have identified the correct voltage, wattage, and mounting type for your element. Now you need to find a reliable source to purchase the replacement part. You have two primary options: traditional brick-and-mortar stores like RV dealerships or a wide array of online retailers. Each path offers distinct advantages and disadvantages.
RV Dealerships and Service Centers
Purchasing your heating element from an authorized RV dealership or a local service center is often the most straightforward option. These locations provide expert guidance and immediate access to parts.
- Expertise on Hand: The parts counter staff at a dealership possess specialized knowledge. You can show them your old element or provide your water heater’s model number, and they can quickly identify the exact Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) part you need.
- Immediate Availability: You can walk out with the correct part the same day. This is a significant advantage if you are in the middle of a trip or need to make a quick repair before heading out.
- Guaranteed Compatibility: Dealerships typically stock OEM parts. These are made by the same company that manufactured your water heater, guaranteeing a perfect fit and adherence to original specifications.
Nota: While convenient, dealerships often have higher prices compared to online sellers. You are paying a premium for the convenience, expert service, and immediate access to the correct component. Their business hours may also be limited, which can be a challenge if you need a part on a weekend or holiday.
Online RV Parts Retailers
The internet has opened up a vast marketplace for RV components, offering competitive pricing and an extensive selection. You can find everything from standard OEM replacements to premium aftermarket elements made from materials like Incoloy or titanium.
Shopping online gives you the power to compare prices and find the best deal. However, you must take full responsibility for ordering the correct part. Double-check the voltage, wattage, and mount type before you click “buy.”
Consejo profesional: Use the part number from your owner’s manual or the old element to search online. This is the most accurate way to ensure you order a compatible replacement and avoid the hassle of returns.
Many reputable online stores specialize in RV parts. They often feature helpful tools like part finders and detailed product descriptions to assist your search.
Here is a comparison of what you can expect from popular online sources:
Online Retailer Type | Selection | Precios | Key Advantage |
---|---|---|---|
Specialty RV Stores (e.g., etrailer, RVupgrades) | Extensive; OEM and aftermarket | Competitive | Detailed product info, expert Q&A, and vehicle-specific part finders. |
Large Online Marketplaces (e.g., Amazon) | Massive; includes many third-party sellers | Often the lowest | Fast shipping options and a wide variety of brands and price points. |
Direct from Manufacturer (e.g., Dometic’s site) | OEM parts only | Typically higher (MSRP) | Guarantees you are getting a genuine factory replacement part. |
A Step-by-Step Guide to Safe Installation
Replacing your water heater’s electric heating element is a manageable DIY project. You can complete this task with the right tools and a careful approach. This guide walks you through each step, from gathering your materials to testing the new installation. Following these procedures ensures a safe and successful replacement.
Tools and Materials for the Job
You should gather all necessary tools and materials before you begin. This preparation prevents interruptions and helps the job go smoothly. Having everything on hand makes the process much more efficient.
Element Wrench and Socket Set
The primary tool for this job is an element wrench. This specialty tool is designed to fit the hexagonal base of a screw-in element, giving you the leverage needed to remove the old part and tighten the new one.
- Element Wrench: A cam-style wrench is the most common type. It grips the element base tightly as you turn it.
- Socket Alternative: You can also use a 1-1/2 inch socket with a breaker bar or a large ratchet. This provides excellent control and leverage.
- For Flange Elements: You will need a standard socket set or wrenches that match the size of the bolts on the flange.
Teflon Tape or Pipe Sealant
A proper seal is essential to prevent leaks. The type of sealant you need depends on your element’s mounting style.
Consejo profesional: Never use both Teflon tape and pipe sealant together. One or the other is sufficient. Using both can prevent a proper seal and may even damage the threads.
- For Screw-In Elements: You will need Teflon tape (also called plumber’s tape) or a pipe thread sealant compound. You apply this to the threads of the new element to create a watertight connection.
- For Flange Elements: You will need a new gasket. The gasket is specifically designed to fit between the element’s flange and the tank, creating a seal when you tighten the bolts. Always use a new gasket; never reuse the old one.
Multimeter for Testing
A multimeter is an invaluable diagnostic tool. You should use it to test the new element before installation and to confirm the old one has failed. This simple test can save you from installing a defective part. You will set the multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms) to check for continuity.
Extracción del elemento calefactor antiguo
You must follow a precise sequence to remove the old element safely. Your top priorities are disconnecting all power sources and completely draining the water tank. Rushing this stage can lead to electrical shock or significant water damage.
Safety First: Disconnect Power and Water
You must completely de-energize the rv water heater before you start any work. This involves disconnecting multiple power sources.
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Failure to disconnect all power sources creates a severe risk of electrocution. Always verify that power is off at the source.
- Disconnect Shore Power: Unplug your RV from the campground pedestal or any other 120V AC source.
- Turn Off the Breaker: Go to your RV’s main electrical panel and switch the circuit breaker for the water heater to the “OFF” position.
- Disconnect 12V DC Power: Turn off the 12V DC switch for the water heater on your control panel. For extra safety, you can use your battery disconnect switch or disconnect the negative terminal from your house battery.
- Turn Off Water Supply: Shut off the city water connection or turn off your RV’s water pump.
Drenaje del tanque del calentador de agua
You must drain the tank completely before you can remove the element. Attempting to remove it with water in the tank will result in an uncontrolled flood of 6 to 12 gallons of water.
- Step 1: Relieve Pressure. Open a hot water faucet inside your RV. Then, go to the exterior access panel and carefully lift the lever on the pressure relief valve. You should hear a hiss of air and see a small spurt of water.
- Step 2: Remove the Drain Plug. Locate the drain plug at the bottom of the tank. For Suburban models, this will be the anode rod. Use a socket wrench to slowly loosen and remove it. Be prepared for water to start draining out.
Disconnecting Wires and Removing the Element
With the power off and the tank empty, you can now access and remove the element.
- Take a Photo: Before you disconnect anything, take a clear picture of the wiring connected to the element. This photo will be your guide for reconnecting the new part correctly.
- Disconnect Wires: Use a nut driver or small wrench to remove the nuts holding the electrical wires to the element’s terminals. Gently pull the wire connectors off.
- Unscrew the Element: Place your element wrench or 1-1/2 inch socket over the element’s base. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. It may require significant force to break it free, especially if it is old and corroded. Once loose, you can unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.
Instalación del nuevo elemento calefactor
Installing the new element is essentially the reverse of the removal process. Your focus here is on creating a clean, tight, and leak-proof seal.
Cleaning Tank Threads or Flange Surface
A clean mounting surface is crucial for a good seal. Any leftover sealant, corrosion, or mineral deposits can cause a leak.
- For Screw-In Models: Use a wire brush or a dedicated thread-cleaning tool to gently clean the female threads on the water heater tank. Wipe away any debris with a clean rag.
- For Flange Models: Use a plastic scraper or a razor blade held carefully at a low angle to remove all traces of the old gasket material from the tank’s surface. Be careful not to gouge or scratch the metal.
Applying Sealant and Tightening Correctly
Properly applying sealant and tightening the element ensures a durable, leak-free connection.
Tipo de elemento | Sealing Method | Tightening Instructions |
---|---|---|
Screw-In | Wrap Teflon tape 3-4 times clockwise around the element’s threads. | Hand-tighten the element, then use your wrench to turn it another 1.5 to 2 full rotations. Do not overtighten. |
Brida | Place the new gasket over the bolts on the new element. | Insert the assembly into the tank. Tighten the bolts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure on the gasket. |
Reconnecting the Electrical Wires
You are now ready to make the final electrical connections. Accuracy is key to ensure the system operates safely.
- Consult Your Photo: Refer to the picture you took earlier.
- Attach the Wires: Place the wire connectors back onto the correct terminals on the new element.
- Secure the Nuts: Thread the nuts back onto the terminals and tighten them until they are snug. A loose connection can overheat and fail, so ensure the wires are secure.
- Replace the Cover: Put the black plastic protective cover back over the terminals.
Final Checks Before Powering On
You have successfully installed the new heating element. This final phase is the most important. You will now verify your work, check for leaks, and safely restore power. These checks prevent damage and ensure your new element operates correctly from the start.
Refilling the Tank and Checking for Leaks
You must fill the water heater tank completely before you apply any electricity. This step prevents the new element from “dry-firing,” which would destroy it instantly. It also allows you to confirm your new seal is watertight.
- Reinstall the Drain Plug. Thread the drain plug or anode rod back into the tank. Tighten it securely with your wrench.
- Close the Pressure Relief Valve. Make sure the metal lever on the pressure relief valve is in its closed, downward position.
- Turn On the Water. Restore water to your RV. You can do this by connecting to city water or by turning on your 12V water pump.
- Purge the Air. Go inside your RV and open the hot water tap on any faucet. You will hear sputtering and hissing as air is forced out of the tank and lines. Let the water run until you get a steady, air-free stream. This confirms the tank is full.
- Inspect for Leaks. Close the faucet and go back outside to the water heater panel. Carefully inspect the area around the new heating element. Look for any drips or moisture. Use a flashlight and a dry paper towel to check for even the smallest leak.
⚠️ Critical Checkpoint: You must confirm there are absolutely no leaks before proceeding. Introducing electricity to a wet environment is extremely dangerous. Failing to check for leaks can lead to severe consequences:
- Safety Hazards: Water contacting the 120V electrical terminals can energize the entire RV chassis, creating a serious shock risk.
- Water Damage: A slow leak can saturate your RV’s floor and walls, causing rot and expensive structural repairs.
- Mold Growth: Lingering moisture creates the perfect environment for mold and mildew to grow within your RV’s walls.
- Increased Energy Consumption: If hot water is constantly leaking out, your heater will run more often, wasting energy.
Restoring Power and Testing Operation
Once you are 100% certain that the tank is full and there are no leaks, you can safely restore power and test your new element. You must follow the correct sequence to ensure all systems come online properly.
Your final safety check involves a specific order of operations.
- First, you refill and test the system for any leaks around the newly installed element.
- Second, you restore power to the water heater only after confirming the system is completely dry and leak-free.
Follow these steps to power up your system:
- Restore 12V DC Power. Turn on the 12V DC switch for the electric side of your water heater. This switch is usually located on your RV’s main control panel.
- Engage the Circuit Breaker. Go to your RV’s power distribution panel. Flip the circuit breaker labeled “Water Heater” back to the “ON” position.
- Connect 120V AC Power. Plug your RV’s shore power cord back into the power source.
- Wait and Test. The new element will now begin heating the water. Give it approximately 20-30 minutes to do its job. After waiting, go inside and turn on a hot water faucet. You should feel warm water flowing from the tap.
Feeling that hot water is your confirmation of a successful installation. You have now safely and correctly replaced your RV’s electric water heater element.
Essential RV Water Heater Maintenance for Longevity

You can significantly extend the life of your heating element and rv water heater with routine care. Proper water heater maintenance prevents common failures like burnout and corrosion. These simple procedures ensure you have reliable hot water on every trip.
The Critical Role of the Anode Rod
Many RVs use an anode rod to protect the water heater tank. This small part plays a huge role in the health of your system.
What is a Sacrificial Anode Rod?
A sacrificial anode rod is a metal rod, usually made of magnesium or aluminum. It screws into the drain port of a steel-tank rv water heater, like those made by Suburban. The rod is designed to corrode, or “sacrifice” itself, through an electrochemical process. This process protects the steel tank from rusting.
How It Protects Your Heating Element
The anode rod protects more than just the tank. By attracting corrosive elements in the water, it also helps shield your heating element from premature failure. A healthy anode rod reduces mineral buildup on the element, which helps it heat water efficiently. This is a vital part of your water heater maintenance schedule.
Inspecting and Replacing Your Anode Rod
You should inspect your anode rod at least once a year. This is often done when you de-winterize your RV.
- Turn off and drain your rv water heater.
- Use a 1-1/16 inch socket to unscrew the anode rod from the drain opening.
- Examine the rod. If it is more than 75% corroded or looks like a thin, pitted wire, you must replace it.
Consejo profesional: Always have a spare anode rod on hand. This simple step in your water heater maintenance routine can save you from a costly tank replacement down the road.
Preventing Burnout: How to Avoid Dry-Firing
Dry-firing is the number one cause of premature heating element failure. You can easily avoid this costly mistake.
What is Dry-Firing and Why It’s Damaging
Dry-firing occurs when you turn on the electric heating element while the tank is empty. The element is designed to be submerged in water. Without water to absorb the intense heat, the element overheats and burns out in seconds. This will instantly destroy a brand-new element.
The “Full Tank” Rule Before Powering On
You must always follow one simple rule. Ensure the rv water heater tank is completely full of water before you turn on the electric switch. After connecting to water, open a hot water faucet inside your RV. Let it run until you get a steady stream of water, which purges all air from the tank. Only then is it safe to power on the element.
Annual Cleaning and Inspection
An annual cleaning routine keeps your standard water heater running at peak performance. This process involves flushing and descaling the system.
How to Descale a Heating Element
If you travel in hard water areas, mineral scale can build up on your element. This forces it to work harder and can lead to failure. The process of flushing and descaling removes these deposits. You can clean a lightly scaled element with a vinegar solution and a soft brush.
Flushing Your Water Heater Tank
Flushing your tank annually removes sediment and mineral deposits that settle at the bottom. This is a key part of water heater maintenance. After draining the tank, you can use a tank rinser wand to spray water inside and dislodge debris. Proper flushing and descaling helps a standard water heater operate efficiently and extends its lifespan.
Troubleshooting Your RV Heating Element

Even with perfect maintenance, parts can fail. When your rv water heater stops producing hot water on electric power, you need to diagnose the problem. This guide covers the symptoms of a bad element and the definitive test to confirm its failure, a key step in rv water heater troubleshooting.
Symptoms of a Failed Element
You can often identify a failed element by observing your system’s behavior. These three symptoms are the most common indicators that your element needs attention.
No Hot Water on Electric Power
This is the most obvious sign. You switch your rv water heater to its electric mode, but the water never gets hot. If the unit works correctly on propane but not on electricity, the electric heating element is the most likely culprit.
Tripped Circuit Breakers
A failing element can develop an internal short circuit. When this happens, it draws excessive electrical current, causing the circuit breaker for your rv water heater to trip. If you repeatedly reset the breaker only for it to trip again when the element is on, you likely have a shorted element. This is a critical safety symptom when troubleshooting common rv water heater issues.
Lukewarm Water
Sometimes an element does not fail completely. Instead, it may be so covered in mineral scale that it cannot transfer heat effectively. This can result in water that is only lukewarm instead of hot. The element is working, but its performance is severely degraded.
How to Test a Heating Element with a Multimeter
The most reliable way to diagnose a faulty element is to test it with a multimeter. This simple diagnostic tool gives you a clear yes-or-no answer about the element’s condition.
Safety First: Before you perform any test, you must disconnect all 120V AC and 12V DC power to the rv water heater.
Setting Up the Multimeter for a Continuity Test
You will use the multimeter to check for electrical continuity and resistance.
- Turn the dial on your multimeter to the lowest setting for Ohms (Ω). This symbol looks like a horseshoe.
- Touch the two metal probes of the multimeter together. The display should read close to 0.0. This confirms your meter is working correctly.
Performing the Test on the Element
With the wires disconnected from the element, you will perform two separate tests.
- Continuity Test: Place one probe on each of the two screw terminals on the element.
- Short-to-Ground Test: Place one probe on one of the screw terminals and the other probe firmly against the metal hexagonal base of the element.
Interpreting the Results (Ohms Reading)
The numbers on your multimeter’s screen will tell you the element’s status.
- Good Element: The continuity test should show a specific resistance reading. For a typical 1440W element, this will be around 10 ohms. Any reading in this range indicates the internal coil is intact.
- Bad Element (Open Circuit): If the continuity test shows an infinite reading (often displayed as “OL” or “1”), the internal coil is broken. The element is bad and needs replacement.
- Bad Element (Shorted): If the short-to-ground test shows any resistance reading other than infinite (“OL”), the element has shorted to its casing. It is dangerous and must be replaced.
This table shows the expected resistance for a functional 1440W, 120V element in an rv water heater.
Type of Resistance | Ohms Value |
---|---|
Theoretical Calculation | 9.2 ohms |
Theoretical Range | 9-10 ohms |
Measured on a New Element | 10.6 ohms |
Reported for a Functional Element | 12 ohms |
You can confidently select a new heating element for your rv water heater. Always match the voltage (120V AC), wattage, and mounting type to your unit’s specifications. You protect your system with simple maintenance. Remember to inspect your anode rod annually and always fill the tank completely before turning on the electric power. Following these professional guidelines ensures you enjoy reliable hot water on all your travels.
PREGUNTAS FRECUENTES
Can I use a higher wattage element for faster heating?
You must not use a higher wattage element. It can overload your RV’s 15-amp circuit, creating a fire hazard by overheating wires. Always match the wattage specified in your owner’s manual for safe operation.
How often should I replace my anode rod?
You should inspect your anode rod annually. Replace it when it is more than 75% corroded or looks like a thin wire. This simple maintenance step protects your tank and heating element from premature failure.
What happens if I turn on the element without water?
Powering the element without water causes “dry-firing.” The element will overheat and burn out in seconds, destroying it instantly. You must always ensure the tank is full before turning on the electric switch. 💧
My water is only lukewarm on electric. Is the element bad?
Lukewarm water can indicate a problem. Your element might be coated in mineral scale, preventing efficient heat transfer. It could also be a sign of a failing element. You should test it with a multimeter.
Is a screw-in or flange element better?
Neither type is inherently better; they are simply different designs. You must use the mounting type that matches your water heater model. A screw-in element cannot replace a flange element, or vice versa.
Do I need a special tool to replace the element? 🛠️
Yes, you will need a specific tool for the job.
- Screw-In: Use a 1-1/2 inch element wrench or socket.
- Flange: Use a standard socket set that matches the bolt size.
Why does my new element trip the breaker?
A tripped breaker often signals a short circuit in the element. This means the internal wiring is damaged and touching the outer casing. You must replace the element immediately to prevent electrical hazards.